Waves

2 03 2008

When Hydrosphere and Atmosphere meet

Waves: Erosion and Sediment.
Erosion – wearing away.
Transportation – moving from one place to another.
Deposition – leaving somewhere.

In Victoria swell is caused by the wind coming across Bass Strait and local winds.
Size of the swell is determined by the speed of the wind and the distance it has travelled.
The distance the wind moves over the water is called the fetch.

Energy transfers to the water which moves in a circular motion.
This becomes simply back and forth in shallow water.
Waves build and collapse in shallow water.
Form a breaker.
More turbulence means more sediment is moved.

The movement of water up the shore is called the swash.
The movement back in called backwash.

Constructive Waves

These build beaches.
Waves of less than 1 metre.
Less than 10 breaking per minute.
Swash is stronger than the backwash and there is a net movement of sediments onto the beach.

Destructive Waves

These take sediment away.
Larger than one metre.
Break more than fifteen per minute.
There are coastal treatments to reduce this damage.
Groynes
Some seawalls.


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